There’s a dual theme here, and I’ll give you a prime example of that shortly.
I’ve been in Russia of late; firstly with Solzhenitsyn’s Apricot Jam, proving that even in his later years, after decades of exile, that he could still look objectively at all that he always saw as wrong in his country, and had retained all the writing skills of his younger days. I had no intention of staying in Russia though, until that was I popped into one of Oxfam’s Bookshops and picked up, for the price of a couple of loaves and half a fishie, Robert Haupt’s Last Boat to Astrakhan. So right now I’m half way down the Volga, enthralled.
Haupt was an Australian journalist who was based in Moscow from 1991 – 1996; those years, post Gorby and with Yeltsin drinking his way towards a free market economy, the days before Litvinenko was poisoned in London and oligarchs made a mint from state assets to launder round the world’s football clubs. It reads like one of those conversations between Clive James and Vitali Vitaliev, with heaps of sardonic wit and an insider’s look from the outside. On the back cover is the following:
“It had been my childhood dream to travel to the Caspian, the below-sea-level sea. When the chance finally came to make the voyage, after the fall of the Soviet Union, I seized it, buying the round-trip ticket with a stack of inflation ravaged roubles that filled a plastic bag and took half an hour to count. Had I delayed, the trip would not have been taken.”
Even then the salmon and the sturgeon had been exiled from the Volga’s currents, victims of dams and pollution. The boat Haupt took was the last one to reach the sea as dredging ceased and the channels silted. We head to Nizhny Novgorod, and the world’s biggest Fair, with trade from five seas and centuries of commerce. And to Kazan, once reached by the Golden Hordes, where the Koran was in vogue for centuries before the Bible came downstream. Haupt is a commentator who admits that he longs for a society for those who don’t crowd the Sistine Chapel, ascend the Eiffel Tower, or be gobsmacked at Giza. He cancelled plans to move on from Samarkand to Bokhara on the strength of ‘you’ve got to go to Bokhara….’ I think we’ll get along just fine.
Coming up may be The Dalai Lama, and that surprised me. For my eye was caught by a review of Beyond Religion – Ethics for a Whole World. It is in the magazine of the Humanist Society of Scotland, but not online yet, so no link though I may be able to update later. His Holiness reveals that he is a secret humanist. He tells us that the world needs “an approach to ethics which makes no recourse to religion and can be equally accessible to those with faith and those without; a secular ethics.” One for the birthday list methinks, and there’s a list that increases as the days count down.
But there’s another one beforehand, a birthday that is, for Urchin the Elder gets a shot at it this weekend, and it seems a bigger bike is essential, and with it gears and mudguards, lights, a basket even. It’s not as easy as it sounds, but we’re nearly there.
It’s been a good few days on the cycling front, with warm sunshine and so I made hay, and broke sweat and had thinking time a-plenty. But whilst I was hurtling down sunny lanes, okay hurtling is a bit enthisiatic, but as I was so the farmers were busy too and the field thrummed to the sounds of ……. making hay while the sun shone. And that of course meant that every time I hurtled round a blind bend so it seemed I was faced with an oncoming tractor, taking up all the road and the grass verges. There was much breathing in, squeezing past, closed eyes and loss of momentum, for the work in the fields meant that each tractor was hauling either a huge lump of machinery with whirring blades and other bits sticking out, or was pulling a massive trailer laden with big round bales. Ach well, the sun was there for us all, and looks to have gone back into hiding. I set a new world record with the speed camera at the school gates, 23mph slowing down from the foot of the hill. The wind was behind me, and the bend at the bottom was just a tad on the nervous side.
This weekend also sees one of the more interesting of our book festivals as the season gets into full swing. Edinburgh is underway, but that’s a logistical nightmare of time and traffic, tramworks and fringe loonies. It goes on for weeks and so varied is the programme that there’s no chance of making a day out of it, with speakers of interest typically involving a return visit every two or three days all for a half hour talk at a tenner a time. Not this year.
But down at Traquair it gets more interesting, with literary bike rides in the company of storytellers, and all in the tranquil scenery of the Borders. Still, logistics are such that to get there for a 9am start, when there’s birthday presents to open, is just not going to happen. Great initiative though.
Through the door the other day though, came the programme for this year’s festival at Wigtown, always a favourite and not just because the town is rammed with second hand bookshops. I’m sorely tempted this year. Miriam Darlington is on, talking about the soon-to-be-published Otter Country and her travels from Tarka territory to Camusfearna and beyond. And that one’s at Gavin Maxwell’s family home at Monreith. Jan Morris will be there too, and it’s not often she makes any trip from her home in Cricceith these days; but her words always have an audience spellbound. For The Genealogist there’s Sarah Fraser and her account of The Last Highlander, tales of her husband’s, and indeed her former husband’s, swashbuckling ancestors. The volume rests unopened on the shelf as yet. But the star, for me, has to be Tahir Shah, in from his home in Casablanca to tell us of Timbuctoo. Unmissable, but for the small matter of the arrival of the school bus two hours away at the same time.
Wigtown runs from 28 September to 7 October, inconveniently missing the local holiday Monday which precedes it this year. It is such an out-of -the-way place it makes for a very long and tiring day, though the rewards are worth it. Or better still a long weekend. Now there’s a thought. Now, that school bus…..
Only two more sleeps and it will be here again.