It was one of those days, the marvellous type, the ones that come along rarely. I had an all day pass, under the guise of football in far off places, with a detour to make that postponed visit up Lochearnhead way, and then the prospect of a party at the end of it. It was the radio that did it, switched on the magic, and brought it all together, from the castle of Doune to the palace of Scone, from the red kite to the white peacock.
By the time I found myself in Lochearnhead, looking for a familiar tree on an unfamiliar road, I was miles away. I should have been in Balquhidder, and I blame the radio. There is something about Radio 4 on a Saturday morning that just grabs you and makes you grind some beans and sit down with a pot of fresh roast.
Saturday Live took me to Eriskay, one of my favourite islands and one that hails me for a return visit for it has been far too long. I can almost hear the corncrakes just thinking about it. Seventy years it is since the SS Politician went down, down with quarter of a million bottles of whisky. We were treated to a narrative from a dive on the wreck. It is a tale that has its place in folklore, with Compton MacKenzie’s Whisky Galore being captured on-screen as one of the best of the Ealing comedies. Bottles still turn up today, the ones liberated from the exciseman, hidden in rabbit holes and sundry other orifices. Despite being now pretty much undrinkable whisky from the Politician remains a real collector’s item, and not just with the whisky fraternity.
By the time I got to the Falls of Leny, in full spate after torrents of rain, I had already spied my first, and only red kite. It circled high above as I passed through Doune, where there is a feeding station nearby. At the falls the water was like Granny’s meringue pie, foaming white and peaty brown, all peaks and eddies. In contrast the waters of Loch Lubnaig were still and moody, as grey as the cloud amid hills stilled in mist and drizzle. There was once a time when I cycled round the loch, but from the car it looks awful hard work, a trip for a fitter and younger me. Ah, the memories.
Excess Baggage brought a chat between John McCarthy and Richard Hamilton, taking me to another place and another day. Richard told tales of his days in Marrakech, ones that I had read just a few weeks ago you may remember, or maybe not; ones that I had heard in situ, captured on the very same programme, not that many years ago. There was cardamom in the air and spices, and the muezzin’s call just as the sun rumoured the sky. No chance of any sun today though, and on we went.
The party was the annual ceilidh for the Friends of Loudoun Kirk. But before then I had a day to enjoy and a book to collect. The book was a leather bound volume of poetry, from 1841. It was being repaired and I was overdue collecting the finished work. It was not my fault that I dragged myself too far along the road, for the Banks and Braes were being aired on the wireless. We were filling Rabbie Burns’ iPod. To the sounds of the Bard’s own fiddle, being played at the Bachelor’s Club in Tarbolton. Liz Lochead, now Scotland’s Makar in succession to the late Edwin Morgan, took me back a few hundred years to the life and times of one who lived it to the full. It is a dreadfully young age to die, 37, even then. What would Burns have got up to given more time?
And as the Trossachs echoed to the sounds and the words of Rabbie, so I missed the Balquhidder turn. But I soon caught up with Eila Ramsay-Clapham, an Islay girl, steeped in peaty malts, surrounded by books. I had to drag myself away, but if ever you have a volume that needs some TLC and expert hands, send it off to Eila. She did a fantastic job with the Poems of Lady Flora Hastings, which takes me back to the ceilidh, for Loudoun Kirk was Flora’s family church and there is a memorial to her in the kirkyard, and indeed a headstone for one of Burns young wenches, amongst others. Flora’s own tale is full of tragedy and like Burns, an early death. She had been a lady-in-waiting at the palace, to a young Queen Victoria. Besmirched she was, or traduced as George Galloway may put it today, to such an extent that the Marquis of Hastings and the Earl of Loudoun, and family, would send their mail with the stamps upside down. The old kirkyard dates back more than 800 years and there’s tales to tell a-plenty, another day.
Still the memories and the connections flooded through, as we passed Loch Earn, on the road to Perth, to Blairgowrie, and the footie. At Fowlis I dug out a CD for the long trip home, for Julie of that name is a chanteuse of some style. She sings in the Gaelic, brings air from the islands, and as she sings I could be walking those sands at Luskentyre, resting at the top of Dun I, in another world. Kinkell took me home again, and the resting place of a wee chestnut Shetland who didn’t deserve our ignorance. His stable name was Kinkell Starship, to us he was just Kelly, another early death.
Then the radio did it again, with the soft Dublin tones of Feargal Keane. I remember his address at the RGS in London, talking of his life in the war zones, his own battles. I had not heard audience silence like it since Diana Krall whispered her own version of #I’ve got You, Under my Skin, at the Wigan Jazz Festival. That still brings goosebumps what must be close to 15 years later.
The loch rippled and a watery sun threatened to burn of the mist through which the tops of the pines poked. The hills above had snow in the deeper corries. Peace rested on the land, surprisingly so after a forecast that brought dread and fear. The game might be off.
And then there was Perth, the Fair City. It was there that I saw the 1972 Australians, with young Lillee and Marsh, though they toted golf clubs and left the cricket to the old stagers, the names the crowd had come to see. Doug Walters and Keith Stackpole were among them and Scotland were skittled out. Somewhere I’ve a signed scorecard.
The beech hedge at Meikleour, on the road to Blairgowrie, is the world’s tallest, at 120ft. It runs for 200yds on the roadside, but today the summer foliage had long gone, the winter bronze stripped by the gales and what was left lost in the murk. It was planted by Jean Mercer the year before her husband was killed at Culloden. It had been some time since I passed along that way.
I’ll spare you the afternoon entertainment, though the boys in black & white live to fight another day in the cup, new management team at the helm. I’ll spare you too the long trip home, through the driving rain, the spray and the gales, darkness having descended.
But then that old wireless did it again. For just as we set out to the ceilidh, to raise funds for Lady Flora, and for Madge’s granny down in the crypt, so the feet started to tap, for it was Robbie Shepherd’s Take the Floor. Thirty years it is since Robbie’s Doric lilt has taken us through our two-steps and stripped our willows. And the boys in the band down Hurlford way didn’t let us down. There was much reeling and a little hooching, exercise for one and all.
Afer all that there was no energy left for hochmagandy or such like. Rabbie would no doubt have managed it, with a wink of the eye and a verse on his lips, but here was I, with a wheeze in my chest and burst of ellipsis……